Crandon Boulevard on a Weeknight

Key Biscayne is Miami after it took a deep breath. Crandon Boulevard runs the length of the island, and walking it in the early evening — joggers out, kite surfers loading gear, light turning the bay into hammered copper — is about as close to calm as South Florida gets.

Oasis Cafe has Cuban coffee strong enough to restart your sense of purpose and croquetas that shatter on contact. The village center around Galleria Shopping Center isn't glamorous — grocery store, dry cleaner, yoga studio — and that's the point. La Boulangerie Boul'Mich makes croissants as good as Coral Gables at half the attitude. Iguanas cross the sidewalk with the slow confidence of permanent residents.

Jasmine climbs every fence on the island and the evening air is almost unreasonably sweet. Bike instead of drive — flat island, dedicated bike lane, bay breeze. You'll cover everything in an hour.